Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and tourists alike praising its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, Unesco recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a prestigious roster of world cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it joins a international community of over 400 metropolises across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "demonstrates its centuries-old food heritage and vibrant food ecosystem," according to a official from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this historic city comes as hardly a shock to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, lively, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has consistently shaped its heart: an profound devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing discussion from waking up until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and taken to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of gastronomic creativity, fusing Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases local ingredients but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and kiosks – hidden treasures that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a simple joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and involved. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however express concern that their younger generation are unwilling to take up the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will encourage more people worldwide to discover these stories and experience the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
