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Whenever curating a list of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred names. But, tucked prominently among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant corner of north London.

A Shocking Recognition

This compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. This recognition has made the family completely shocked.

“I’m utterly shocked,” remarks a proprietor, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their humble shop achieving such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its original feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the food, and this establishment certainly excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Dedication

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not train at fancy restaurants. “I am very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo beyond its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this gastronomic achievement.